Greece's second-largest Island is separated from the mainland by the narrow Strait of Euripus.
With a fierce, mountainous spine and roads that often degrade to dirt tracks on the coast, Evia still isn't accustomed to tourism.
But there's much to see, as those mountains have waterfalls, gorges and can be admired in all their splendour on winding roads.
To call the beaches on Evia "remote" doesn't sum up just how far removed from civilisation they can be.
Many double as campgrounds where people pitch their tents right by the water.
Ancient Eretria and Theatre
Some 20 kilometres along the strait southeast of Halkida lie the ruins of the ancient polis of Eretria.
The oldest finds date back to the 9th century BC, but by the 1st century BC Eretria was in decline after being ransacked in the First Mithridatic War against Rome.
The site has two palaces, four temples, baths, a gymnasium and a house with mosaics.
But the show-stopper is the theatre, one of oldest in Ancient Greece, dating from the 5th century BC. What's so special about this monument is that it was laid on a man-made hill supported by retaining walls, much more of a feat than if it had simply used the slopes of Eretria's citadel.
Those earthworks are still visible, and the lowest tiers still have their limestone benches, while behind the skene is a vaulted passageway leading to the orchestra.
Archaeological Museum of Eretria
Eretria is important enough that a lot of its ceramics and statues unearthed are now on show at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens or the Louvre.
But the museum at the site still has lots of interesting things to see.
One is a terracotta figurine of a centaur, dating to the 10th century BC and found in a tomb at the village of Lefkandi.
From 560 BC you'll find a stunning funerary amphora showing Heracles fighting the Centaurs and a depiction of Potnia Theron (Mistress of the Animals) behind.
One of the many noteworthy sculptures is a damaged representation of Theseus and Antiope, a 6th-century work, possibly by the acclaimed Athenian sculptor Antenor.
Karababa Castle
Right across the strait from Halkida is a fortress put up by the Ottomans in 1684 to defend the town against the Venetians.
The stronghold caps a cypress-dotted hill with arresting views of Halkida, Evia and the strait,. And if you're wondering why the architecture is European, the fortress was designed by a Venetian, Gerolimo Galopo and then held out during an unsuccessful siege by the Venetians in 1688. Facing Halkida is a hexagonal bastion armed with two Russian cannons from the 19th century.
In the fortress vaults there's also a lapidarium, with ancient building fragments, Venetian ornamental carvings and renditions of the Lion of St Mark.
Edipsos Springs
Directly on the strait in Edipsos is a thermal spring that was mentioned by the both Aristotle and Plutarch.
In 1897 the high luxury Thermae Sylla Spa was built on the spring and in its time has attracted famous figures like Aristotle Onassis, Winston Churchill and Omar Sharif.
Fortunately you don't have to book into that establishment to experience the mineral-rich waters.
These are claimed to soothe muscular and skeletal problems, as well as the endocrine system due to their trace radon levels.
Outside the gates of the spa, where the spring cascades into the sea, is a small beach with a layer of smooth rock formed by the build-up of minerals.
Chiliadou Beach
If you like your beaches to be wild and open to the elements, Chiliadou is the one for you.
The journey there isn't easy as it takes more than an hour from Halkida, but for the last third the serpentine road weaves through a sublime mountainous landscape, past the 1,742-metre Dirfi peak.
Finally you'll be at three beaches in an otherwise fearsome environment of gnarled limestone cliffs.
The largest of these beaches is Chiliadou, formerly just for naturists as it's so remote, but now visited by all.
The beach is broad sweep of sand and pebbles, sometimes lashed by waves, but with transparent water on calmer days.
Parents with children need to take care as the shore drops off suddenly.
