This is a journey that started in the heart of Serbia... Beograd. Even before I boarded the plane, I thought this trip would be special, humbling even. What I did not expect was for it to change my life. I did not expect for strangers to quickly become family or for my outlook on life to be altered in a way that changed the person I am today. It was a trip that everyone should embark on once in their lifetime because the feelings and lessons learned can truly only be seen to fully comprehend. For now, I'll share my story.
We were led on this journey by Father Radivoj, someone who I quickly perceived to be one of the most remarkable human beings I have ever had the opportunity to meet. After traveling down beautiful, winding roads through the countryside of Serbia, our minibus filled with nine exhausted but excited individuals reached the first stop... Devic Monastery.
We were there to visit the nuns and deliver basic necessities to them such as detergent, rice, sugar, oil and flour. The first shock came when before entering the gates of the monastery, we were stopped by the Albanian police who stand guard outside this beautiful place 24/7. Nestled in the mountains, this breathtaking monastery is home to three nuns who are the embodiment of true heroines. Before leaving our minibus I witnessed something that plays in my mind over and over…the site of pure joy and happiness. As Father walked toward the entrance, the door opened and it was as if the whole scene flashed by in slow motion. Mati Olympiada (the mother nun of this monastery) came through the door and was immediately overwhelmed with happiness as she folded over and covered her mouth trying to shield her excitement that she had visitors and especially a visitor like Father Radivoj. The pure radiance on her face is something that will stay with me for the rest of my life because in that moment, I saw what it was like to experience sincere contentment and joy for life. The tears began rolling at this moment and continued throughout the journey.
During the tour of their beautiful church, Mati explained the tragedy that left the three nuns scared and virtually alone. The war had taken many things from these women…their sisters and their freedom. A woman from our group, who quickly became an idol to me, said it most profoundly: "until I came here, I never knew the true meaning of freedom." Mati has been in Devic since 1953, and has seen and experienced things that until then I had never thought about. When asked how it was living there in isolation she responded with: "we are afraid every day." These women survive on faith and love for God to get them through this life of hardships and fear. I have never, to this day, met more awe-inspiring and humbling people.
After leaving Devic, our journey continued to one of the country's most sacred monasteries, Visoki Decani.
Built in the 14th century, the monastery was added to the UNESCO list of endangered World Heritage sites in 2006. During the worst times of the civil war, the monastery was a safe haven to displaced Serbian families. Encircled by mountains, barbed wire fences and around the clock Austrian armed guards, this place still made me feel as if I was completely safe and at peace. The beautiful buildings surrounding the breathtaking church gave off a serene feeling that eliminated any fear. This monastery is filled with monks and visitors who spend their time praying and taking life for what it is…a blessing. We met a woman visiting the monastery who was originally from the U.S. and currently lives in Amsterdam. When we asked how long she had been there her reply said it all… 'One week but definitely not enough time'. Our group spent the night here in dorms that reminded me of my church camp in the St Sava Monastery in Libertyville that I hold near to my heart. Needless to say, I felt very much at home. The next morning was filled with a wonderful church service in a church with amazing icons that told countless stories. We spent the afternoon having coffee and talking with Father Sava (the head monk at Visoki Decani). He was one of those people that I could have listened to for hours. His outlook on life was relevant, refreshing and inspirational despite the horror he witnessed during the war right outside the walls of the monastery. Saying goodbye to Visoki Decani was difficult, but it is a place that will stay with me forever.
Our next stop was Pecka Patrijarsija, built in the 13th century.
The monastery and meticulously landscaped grounds were so stunning, describing the scene could not do it justice. The monastery is filled with nuns and memories. The church was covered in hand painted frescos that take you back to the time they were created. As some are rubbed off, it left an impression on me of how long this place had been standing. I thought about the people of all ages and various struggles throughout the centuries that walked through the beautiful gardens seeking comfort.
As we left the monastery and drove through Kosovo I realized that although the number of Serbian churches and monasteries in the region is many, the presence of Serbian people is very low. It was easy to conclude that we were now the minority. Despite this fact, it was obvious that the faith that these Serbs continue to have is extraordinary. They will not be removed from the place they call their rightful home and they will not be deterred in their faith. To them, Kosovo is and will always be both their spiritual and physical home.
After leaving Pecka Patrijarsija, Kathy, our group president, went with Father Isaija from Decani to purchase food for the families we would be visiting. She told us that when they were shopping, the people in the market would give Father unfriendly looks to which Kathy asked: "Do they give you a hard time?" He responded with "Not yet." It showed me that no matter how much danger they may be in, there are people like Father Isaija that do not let it affect his life. He has set out to help people and that is exactly what he will do regardless of the actions of others or feelings people have towards him.
Before reaching the monastery we will sleep at that night, we stopped to visit families that "Our Serbs" raised money for prior to this trip. We raised money through fundraising to help the neediest families. The families were provided with a new roof, a greenhouse to grown their own produce and a barn. In addition, basic food essentials were also delivered by our group. These were simple food items to all of us but they would greatly impact the daily lives of these families. The feeling of joy I felt when speaking with the families and giving the children little toys was something I will never forget. The people we met were so kind and hardworking and so grateful for our presence and help. It made me feel so fortunate for what I had and so much more determined to keep helping our people.
Our final destination that night was Sveti Arhangel Monastery in Prizren which was home to one lovely priest, Father Sava.
The church had been demolished during the war, and while the government will not allow the rebuilding to continue, Father has made a chapel in his home where he holds service. I was overwhelmed with sadness when Father explained that no one comes to church at this monastery and that he is alone almost every day. The feeling at night was eerie with the winding road a few feet from the dorm we slept in. The headlights of cars driving by flashed through our windows as we fell asleep. One lone Albanian guard stood watch over the monastery. This monastery was the hardest to leave for me because the thought of Father Sava being alone here was heartbreaking. He had said that this was "God's plan" for him. It made me realize that everything happens for a reason and if he can be so at ease with his path then so should all of us. He put his faith in God and he achieves happiness through that. It was truly inspiring.
As we woke the next morning, we were greeted with a full breakfast and gifted handmade bracelets that I have worn every day since. After leaving Sveti Arhangel, we started our journey back to Beograd. On the way we stopped at the final monastery on our trip, Gracanica. This beautiful monastery was the most populated yet with many, many visitors. We received a tour of the church that has an exact replica in Grayslake, IL. The man who gave us the tour spoke with such passion, each of us were captivated by his words. The history behind each fresco was so interesting and the artwork was mesmerizing. After talking with the nuns and priests at this monastery over coffee and snacks (of course), we began to understand the depth of the problems that the Serbian people are going through in Kosovo. They are constantly dealing with threats to both their land and to their spiritual survival.
Upon returning to Beograd, we finished our portion of the trip with visits to two soup kitchens. Again, I was amazed at the beautiful souls who volunteer to help the less fortunate by cooking 2,000 meals each day. The clergy we met were so inspirational. They provided not only spiritual guidance to the underprivileged but also delivered medical supplies to the sick and school supplies to children. Their work knows no limits.
Throughout the trip I met the strongest and most inspiring people who continue to lead their lives with such purpose and determination. It inspires me to not only help myself become a better person, but also to help all people in order to make this increasingly messed up world into a place that we can all feel safe in.
I can't begin to express my gratitude to the people who allowed me to embark on this journey. I'm 19 years old and I feel as if my whole outlook on life has changed. I owe it to the people who took on the journey with me, along with the people who inspired me at every stop. After many tears and laughs, I can truly say I am a different person for the better. This trip will stay with me forever.
-Nani
