It is not uncommon for restaurants in Hong Kong to open until wee hours of the night. Plastic stools, makeshift tables, and coolers filled with ice-cold beer line the bustling streets of Jordan and Mong Kok. The clatter of dishes, shouting of chefs, and chatter of customers compose an at once cacophonous and inviting symphony. Amidst the clamor, one finds a population as diverse as that of the cosmopolitan city itself. Be it professionals who just left the office after pulling an all-nighter, clubbers who seek food to soothe their alcohol-agitated stomachs, or workers getting ready to begin their night shifts, many of the city’s denizens find siu-ye, or late night snacking, integral to their Hong Kong experience.

In the picture above, a narrow and nondescript alley transforms into a social hub of sorts at night. Eateries lure in customers with eye-catching neon banners that advertise their signature dishes––spicy crab, casserole chicken in three spices, stir-fry frog legs, barbecue skewered meat, desserts of all sorts––while beer salespersons go around tables advertising drinks to go with people’s orders. The pungent smell of decaying rubbish on the pavements is mixed with the strong pepper scent from someone’s seafood dish and the aroma of boiling oil. On rainy nights such as this, canopies are drawn and shirts are drizzled on, but the spirits of customers are by no means dampened. By the time the last customers left for their respective homes, restaurateurs are getting ready to welcome the early birds for breakfast.

Late night snacking has long been frowned upon by nutritionists. Popular belief is that late night snacking causes indigestion and weight gain, due to the limited time there is to consume those calories before sleep. According to a 2008 study published by the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, late night snacking predicts weight gain, but does not necessarily lead to abnormal sleep patterns. However, a nutrition guide published by MIT Medical states that “lack-night will not be considered excess food by [the] body––unless [one] eats too much over the course of the whole day.” Rather than the time of the day calories are consumed, it is the total amount of calories consumed that contributes directly to weight gain. Despite academic discussion over nutritional value of late night snacking, many still choose to frequent local eateries.

Last spring break, I flew back to Hong Kong to see my grandparents. Although I had the opportunity to grab some food on the plane, my stomach was still rumbling after my flight landed at one in the morning. I found my dad on the airport concourse, and before I could process the overwhelming feeling of “I’m Home!”, I found myself inside a famous Kowloon eatery. Sitting at a table with my dad next to me, I took a big bite of braised chicken and took a sip of the Crab Congee. Homecoming never tasted better.