In a good pair of blue jeans and a your favorite t-shirt, you can conquer anything. But what makes your favorite pair so special? Today I'm going to talk all about the process of making a pair of jeans. From where it started to how it became an instant classic and must have in everyone's closet.
Denim is 100% cotton made into a canvas weave, sometimes with spandex for stretch and colored with the indigo plant to get that tint of blue. There are many different fits when it comes to mens and womens jeans. There's the classic fit which is a straight leg, the boot cut, bell bottoms or flares, and the skinny. Along with two kinds of flies, the button and the zipper.
Men and women are designed differently, so naturally the clothes made are fitted differently for men and women. Waists for men start at 28 inches and go to 42 inches. And waists for women start at 25 inches and only go to 32 inches. While the waist measurements are oddly similar the inseam is vastly different. For men, the inseams are 32 inches, 34 inches, and 36 inches. But for women the inseams are 28 inches, 30 inches, 32 inches, and 34 inches.
Jeans were first made out to be rigid and tough, for your average blue collar worker but in the 1970's Levi's reinvented their classic fit by adding a 'wash' to their jeans, called the "shrink to fit". People would buy these rigid jeans and then wear them into pools and into the shower allowing the denim to shrink to fit to their bodies.
This started a whole new take on who a pair of jeans were made for. Now with a little history under your belt on how the infamous denim jean came about here's how to make them.
So the designer starts off with what kind of jeans they want the factory to make, so what are the seasonal trends that are going on, this determines the denim washing and styling. Then they move on to deciding on what fit and what wash and what type of denim quality the designer wants. Denim quality is three things; weight, which is how tough and sturdy the pair is. Dye, which is what kind of original shade you want the blue jeans to be. And content, which is how you decide if you want to include other materials like spandex or polyester for stretch.
Then you construct a paper pattern, paper patterns determines what fit, waist, and inseam that are decided to make the jeans. Then you cut the denim according to the pattern.
Now you're standing in the factory with the idea of what kind of denim jeans you want to make.
Step 1 is assembling the key parts, so you make the waistband, detail the back pockets if needed, make the belt loops, assemble the front pocket bags, assemble the front fly, and lastly assemble the back yokes, yokes are the part of the jeans that curve up your back side from the waist, then after all that start collecting the buttons, thread, zipper, and labels.
Step 2, the way that every pair of jeans are made is you start with the back. Attach the back pockets to the back panels, then attach the front pockets to the front panels, connect the back yokes to the back panels, after that you sew the back panels to the front panels, left to left, right to right, starting with the out seams first.
Step 3, sew front fly where the zipper tape and zipper head are suppose to be to the front panels, then sew your front and back crotch panels closed, after that come back and attach the waistband all around the top and add your belt loops.
Step 4: finish with your inseam to close out the pair of jeans and hem the bottom of the jeans according to appropriate length.
After the sewing process is completed you move onto the wash process.
-Step 1, apply dry treatment. Dry treatment is what the designer chose to put on the jeans, whether it be sand blasting, whiskering, potassium sponging, or adding rips and tears.
After the dry treatment go onto step 2, desizing. Desizing is when you remove the starch that was used in the weaving of the jeans that kept the denim fabric rigid so the pair is able to fold and shape.
Lastly is step 3, this is when the specific styles of jeans come into play making that pair of jeans unique. You put the jeans in a normal wash cycle with wet treatments. Wet treatments take many forms of tinting, staining, painting, bleaching and over dying.
Now you're ready for the finishing touch which is attaching the button.