I love being a Haitian-American. Beyond the food, the culture and the people, I just learn so many things. That includes how to treat your hair. Haitians are not the only people and culture to have unique hair treatments and routines; check out Youtube and Instagram for proof of that. But what happens a lot is that some hair treatments aren't necessarily what is best for your hair and in the end, rather than helping it, can damage those luxurious locks. I am one of those people. My mother was never really picky about what she used for my hair as a child, but when my dandruff broke out, she would use l'huile palma cristy to try and re-hydrate my hair- the very thing she had used as a child for herself. My mother was the youngest of 5, and she would be the one to do many of the females of her family's hair, so she knew what she was doing. This is considered "magic oil" or more correctly, "stinky oil", for all sorts of remedies (sore throats, headaches, aching bones, hair growth, etc)- it was the oil. If you don't know how to make it, you better have the plant. If you don't, you better have the cash, because it is expensive compared to other oils. Unfortunately, it's many properties couldn't rid the dandruff off my head. Finally tired of all my itching, white flakes and my complaints she took me to a doctor that prescribed a different oil entirely: olive oil, as well as dandruff fighting shampoos like Dove, Pantene, TRESemme's Expert 2 in 1 Reverse and L'Oreal.
Safe to say, soon after, I was flake free. However, as I grew older and experimented with my crazy curls and sensitive scalp I've learned a few tricks here and there on how to keep my curls curly, healthy and beautiful. Unfortunately, the internet was not as accepting of afros and frizzy curls as it is now so my journey did takes it's toll. To help my fellow naturally curly girls out there, here are a few truths I learned along the way:
1.Never wash your hair more than once a week.
Now ths rule does not just apply to curl wearing people, but to all of us- straight, wavy, curled, bald, all of us! If you hadn't gone swimming or somehow gotten mud, dirt or someother icky substance in your hair or is about to go out for something like a date or formal affair, limit hair washing to a weekly task. It is also important to note to keep on this schedule! Like excercising, dieting and skin treatments- irregularity can damage the scalp, roots and consequently, the rest of your hair. Washing your hari too frequently can wash away necessary minerals, oils and chemicals that are naturally produced. If you have colored hair, this rule still applies-however, talking to your stylist about how to treat your hair to keep the vibrancy of the color is also a major must.
2. When washing, focus solely on the scalp and roots.
Yes, you should quickly was out the rest of your hair, however, focusing too much on the actual hairs can have a negative outcome. If you wash to vigorously can lead to split ends, damged hair folicles and unevenness in hair length. Washing to lightly wont get rid of all the harmful bacteria that can cause achne, skin irritation and dryness. If you do a quickly wash of the hair strands and focus on the roots and scalps, you will see a difference in length, vibrancy, shine, tangles, knots, and bouncy.
3.Go against status quo- condition first.
All your life, you went through the same routine- comb out, wet, shampoo first, then condition and finally style/ set. While for some, that is still the way to go, research has proven that conditioning before you wet and shampoo is the best way to go. By conditioning first, you lock in moisture and healthy minerals while sothingly washing away all the bad. It also keeps in color longer.Shampooing first can be harsh to the skin and oils, so by conditioing first, you soften your hair, sooths out the tangles and knots and just makes washing your hair a little less of a struggle
4.Shampoo and rinse a maximum of four and a minimum of two.
This is actually pretty debatable, but I have found doing the shampoo and rinse cycle no more than four and no less than two times is the best for curly hair. Cycling only once may not get all the ick out of your hair and cycling more than than four can cause itchyness, dryness and even hair loss. Also, try rinsing your hair in cool to cold water- it keeps the roots strong, healthy and helps preventing major hair loss. I personallonly cycle twice, unless I haven't kept up with my weekly washes, in which case I only do three. This is completely dependant on your own personal hair and scalp situations, and if you are not sure consult with a professional stylist. They know what they are doing.
5. After last shampoo cycle, rinse with white vinegar.
If your hair has too little oils and moisture, do not do this until your moisture concentration is raised because vinager- no matter the kind- is acidic and can cause damage. Also, for everyone else, never do more than a tablespoon rinse, and always rinse your hair with cool water afterwards. The end result will be shinier, brighter, softer and more healthy hair.
6.DO NOT TOWEL DRY!
Ever! If you are in a rush, dry shampoo your hair instead. It's quicker, less work and still makes your hair look beautiful. Why shouldn't you towel dry? Because all that work that you did to make sure that necessary moisture stays in place will be in vain! You will have literally wasted an hour of your time for nothing! Towel drying pulls at your hair, removes so much of that wonderful moisture, oil and even some minerals all the while retangling your hair! If you are washing your hair before some important event or school/ work, do yourself a favor, get up extra early and use a blow dryer or comb it out and use the CLO or COL routine before putting it in a bun or braids before heading out the door. But never, ever, towel dry.
7. The CLO/ COL Routine- USE IT
The CLO or COL routine is simple. While your hair is damp- not wet- put stay in conditioner/ cream, hair lotion, and eseential oils (l'huile palma christy- or otherwise know raw Castor Oil- or olive oil, aloe and virgin olive oils), focusing on the scalp and roots, in letter order as seen above: Cream, Lotion then Oil or Cream, oil then lotion. There is a debate about whitch way is the best but it is really up to you and your hair.
8.Comb it out!
After washing, CLO/ COL'ing your hair, especially if you have curls comb it out! it will be a pain, but it will be worth it! If you don't comb it out, untagling it later will be a nightmare. PLus, combing it gives your hair a more luxurious lightweight feel that give you a confidence boost like you would not believe! It also makes it much easier to style.
9.Especially for curls, Braid, Bantou or Bun your hair.
Styling it soon after CLO/ COL'ing your hair gives your curls a freshness, bounce and beautiful look. If you wan more 'fro, bun it. If you want smooth bouncy curls, Bantou it. If you want waves for days, braid it. Either way, it will keep the moisture locked in, your hair looking good, lets oils do their jobs, strengthen the hair, lets the roots breathe and lets you run out the door looking and feeling good.
10.Don't Top Bun if You Don't Have To.
Putting your hair in a top bun, strains the hairs and pulls the roots. It also doesn't allow your hair to dry properly, which means you will be drowning your roots and that is no good. Beyond that, it pulls at your scalps resulting in mind splitting migraines and headaches. Try instead a Bun Fohawk, Twin Buns, Pigtail Buns or a Low bun. The same applies with Hig-pony tails.
11. Treat, style and wrap your hair nightly.
A lot of us curly headed girls don't have the time or patience to deal with our wild curls in the morning. Your best bet is to start the night before. Again, whether it be bantous (big and small), braids of all varieties or a simple mid-bun with the nightly treat ment of either cream, lotion or oil, and not all three, you hair can come out to be absolutely beautiful the next morning, bouncing curls or fresh waves, and/ or a lot easier to style. Also make sure to wrap your curls in silk bonnets or have silk pillow covers. As long as it's not cotton because cotton (the thing our towels are made of) removes moisture even if we are not drying ourselves with it. That's why cotton underwear is the healthiest underwear to wear.
As long as you keep up this routine, you can see a difference in as little as a month. Your hair will be less knotted, smoother, softer and so much easier to handle. Even when straightening, you will see a difference. Your hair will shine with vibrancy and, like buying a pair of brand new kicks/ heels, you get a whole new lease on life.
Let your curls run free, bouncing with TLC!