Eyeshadow. One of the most basic parts of makeup that also has infinite room for creativity. Makeup companies have been releasing eyeshadow palettes like crazy the past two years, ranging from basic neutral palettes to bold, colorful ones. All these options can be overwhelming for a beginner, but have no fear! This article will help you master the basic techniques and tips for creating a flawless eyeshadow look.
1. Wet the brush when applying shimmer shades
This is one of the best makeup hacks in the books. If you want your shimmer shade to be more reflective and opaque than it already is, then pick up the shade on a flat shader brush and spritz it with some setting spray (or even water)! This will make the shadow apply like a paint, making it easier to spread with a more foiled, bright finish.
Note: Do NOT try this with matte shadows! This technique works beautifully with shimmer/metallic shades but WILL ruin your mattes.
2. Do your eyeshadow before the rest of your face
I love doing this when I have a very specific, dramatic look in mind. It gives me the power to correct mistakes without fear of ruining my base makeup, and makes my makeup look very crisp and precise. One of my favorite things to do is apply tape to the sides of my eyes in the direction of my eyeliner, because I can blend messily but still have a sharp line after removing the tape! If you don’t want to use tape, then you can also take a makeup wipe and remove the shadow in the shape of a wing.
3. Brush away fall out with a powder brush
Fall out is one of the most annoying parts about eyeshadow, especially when using soft shadows that blend beautifully. If you’ve already done your base makeup and are experiencing fall out from your shadow, then fear not! Simply take a powder brush and carefully brush the pigment away. Try to brush it towards the sides of your face, so it won’t disrupt other parts of your face makeup.
4. Apply a transition shade
The most underrated, yet important step when creating an eyeshadow look. A transition shade is a shade that sets the background for the look you’re going for. This allows for a seamless, gradient effect for your eyeshadow, especially when trying to incorporate darker shades. A transition shade will make your look appear softer and more blown out, rather than harsh and unblended.
5. Use black or brown eyeshadow as a soft eyeliner
I often don’t like applying eyeliner every day because it makes my “natural” look appear more dressy than intended. However, I do notice that I want to have some definition that separates my lashes from my eyeshadow look. Using a black or brown eyeshadow is perfect for these days, and all I do is press the color on my lash line using the tip of a flat shader brush. It adds the most natural, yet smoky dimension that won’t overpower your look.
6. Highlight your inner corner and brow bone
I can’t go a day without doing this. Highlighting your inner corner and brow bone makes your face appear more awake, illuminated, and defined because it will attract light towards the center of your face. You can do this with a matte or shimmer shade, as long as it’s light and acts as a highlighter on your complexion!
7. Use your finger to apply shimmer shades
Ever notice that shimmer shades almost always swatch better than they apply with a brush? While spritzing your brush can intensify shimmer shadow, applying them with your finger can be one of the easiest ways to achieve a very pigmented look that reflects exactly what you see in the eyeshadow pan. Simply swirl your (clean) finger in the eyeshadow, and either swipe or pat it on to your eyelid.
8. Dark on the outside, light on the inside
The general rule of thumb for eyeshadow is to do darker shades on the outer corners, and lighter shades towards the inner corners of your eye. The darker shades will allow you to frame your eye shape, while the lighter shades will help draw attention to parts of your eye that people will see most (inner corner, lid). While there’s no rules in makeup, this is a general technique that most people follow when doing their eyeshadow.
9. Cut the crease
When making a dramatic and creative look, it’s easy to run out of lid space and fill it with various matte shades that make the eye look small and dark. However, there is a way to fake the appearance of more lid space! All you have to do is “cut” your crease, which means that you take concealer and blank out your lid space. This will allow your beautiful crease work to shine though, while allowing you to play with more space on your lid. I love applying a beautiful shimmer shade or glitter after cutting the crease, because it makes the color shine brighter than if I were put it on top of a dark, matte shade.
10. Smoke out the lower lash line
This trick is something that many of us know, but rarely take advantage of. “Smoking out” the lower lash line is simply blending color under your lash line to help create a more cohesive and/or dramatic look. Doing this will also bring attention to the whites in your eye, and better frame your eye shape. However, be careful to not go too dark if you’re going for a natural look! This trick can make your eyes look smaller if you use a dark shade, so choose wisely according to the look you’re creating.
