When most people think of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, they think of the crowded streets, with bars on each side that are famous for hand grenades and mint juleps. The crowds are filled with tourists from all over the world, rambunctious college students, and thousands of others just looking to have a great time. What these tourists don’t know, is that just a few blocks away, on Bourbon Street and in the infamous French Quarter, there is a much different experience to be had.
Up and down St. Charles Avenue you can find people who have been through more than just a couple of Mardi Gras seasons. Most people here are Mardi Gras regulars who have staked out the same spot on the neutral grounds for longer than they can remember. A typical festival weekend here starts with catching shoes at Muses on Thursday, or catching any of the parades that run uptown on Friday night.
The real party begins on Saturday though. Early in the morning, before the streets are even shut down, people begin setting up their ladders and folding chairs. Along St. Charles, if you happen to get there early enough, there is plenty room for a full party to be set up. There are tents to mark off the territories and tables with an endless amount of food, including Popeyes, Randazzo’s king cakes, and many other New Orleans’ favorites. Some people even bring supplies to cook jambalaya and gumbo right on the parade route. On Saturday, uptown revelers can catch the Krewe of Isis and Tucks before packing up and moving to the Mid-City route of Endymion. This parade is known for extravagantly lit floats that are often two or three trailers long. It is also know to regulars for having some of the longest breaks in between floats as well, caused by the floats getting caught on low hanging power lines and oak tree branches. This same process of setting up in the morning and partying all day continues throughout Sunday and Monday as well. The only difference being that Bacchus and Orpheus follow the uptown route, so no need to move.
Sunday night brings a whole new adventure. Unlike the other nights, the smart people know not to pack up right away…. or at all. Regular Mardi Gras goers will often camp overnight to guarantee their spot on the parade route to hail the king of Fat Tuesday himself, Rex.
Overall, I believe that the parades are what bring people together, but it is the company you keep and the traditions you make that keep people returning for many years to come. Mardi Gras in New Orleans is one of the few times that families, religious figures, college students and an ever-going variety of people can come together to eat, drink, and celebrate the season. Next time you find yourself in the city for Mardi Gras, I invite you to step away from the bars and find the locals.
