Twice a year, every year, designers, models, creative directors, editors, celebrities and hundreds of fashion industry figures flock to New York City to kick off the beginning of an international fashion month which begins in September in the Big Apple and ends in Paris. But this year is different. This year the fashion world encounters the faces of the models and fashion figures that were once turned down for roles and jobs because they did not match the industry standard and fit the supermodel mold.
Fashion retailers and the media industry are changing as editors, photographers, directors, and models are moving to a 100% Photoshop-Free era. Aerie began this trend in 2014 when they refused to “photoshop” or re-touch their models or even hire supermodels. Aerie has become one of the first retailers that promoted positive body and self-images in the United States and has sponsored the National Eating Disorder Association (NEDA). NEDA is a “non-profit organization devoted to preventing eating disorders, providing treatment referrals, and increasing the education and understanding of eating disorders, weight, and body image.”
This comes after a backlash in the industry after questions arose regarding the lack of variety in body types and racial representation in the current market today. As a result, young girls are developing eating disorders and self-esteem issues because they do not see an accurate representation of their bodies or looks in the media or clothing retailers today.
The misrepresentation does not end there. As our bodies were not created equal, the disparity in sizes and structure of clothing makes it harder for women with not enough curves or excessively large busts or too thick thighs to find the right fitting jean or the shirt that lays just right or a bikini that covers enough for the public eye. Fast-fashion favorites like Zara or H&M only run down to 0 and up to 12, maybe 14, if you’re lucky enough. Lingerie brand, Victoria’s Secret runs from extra small to extra large and up to a DDD cup in certain bra collections. Yet, the discrepancy lies that a large at a Forever 21 store can fit completely different from a large at a local boutique.
The question of inclusivity has caused the fashion world to swallow its pride and open up its doors to models of all shapes, sizes, disorders, colors, and structure. Madeline Stuart changed society’s perception of beauty becoming the first model with Down syndrome to walk down the runaway in New York last year. Iskra Lawrence a English model for Aerie and ambassador for NEDA walked her first fashion week show, last week for Chromat, a “swim and athletic wear company built for strong powerful woman” and has become a popular advocator in the world of social for natural bodies and a diverse representation. Canadian model, Winnie Harlow, used her unique appearance to her advantage and would eventually go on to star in the reality show, America’s Next Top Model. Harlow’s vitiligo, a pigment-related skin condition, which once was a cause of bullying as a child led her to landing a role in Beyonce’s Lemonade. Resma Banoo Qureshi, a nineteen-year old acid attack survivor, walked Indian designer Archana Kochhar’s show in New York last week for the same reason as other under-the-radar models; to prove that they are equally capable of doing the same job with different looks.
After years of Caucasian, one-type models, the fashion world, thanks to the messages on social media, is revamping how we see our bodies and beginning to include women of all shapes, sizes, and racial background. The industry is beginning to realize one size does not fit all.
And in case you were wondering, here’s a list of some great body positive accounts to follow that are changing the fashion industry one post at a time.
Barbara Ferreira (@barbienox)
Winnie Harlow (@winnieharlow)
Dounia (@dounia.t)
Iskra Lawrence (@iamiskra)
Love Your Lines (@loveyourlines)
More Models of Color (@moremodelsofcolor)
Clementine Desseaux (@bonjourclem)
Healthy is The New Skinny (@healthyisthenewskinny)
Shaun Ross (@shaundross)
Eff Your Beauty Standards (@effyourbeautystandards)
Nadia Aboulhosn (@nadiaaboulhosn)
Mama Cax (@caxmee)