Growing up in the United States, the land of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness, we are taught that a nation which is ruled by a monarchy is inferior to our idealized (but flawed) democracy. We teach elementary school students that King George III was a tyrant who wanted the colonists to suffer for his own gains. On the reverse, Prince William and Kate Middleton are wonderful, but only because they have no real power other than to shut down the entire capital for their wedding. After all, in the United States, we love a good celebrity couple. But democracy, we are taught, is the only way a nation can survive and thrive.
In Bhutan, where I am currently studying abroad, it is rare to get into a taxi and not see an image of the fifth and current king, His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, or his father, the fourth king, His Majesty King Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Their birthdays are celebrated throughout the nation and posters that stand twelve feet high adorn shops and office buildings. My first thought when coming into contact with such propaganda was of James Franco’s "The Interview" and North Korea. In reality, Bhutan could not be more different than the communist nation.
Bhutan's government is a constitutional monarchy, ruled by a prime minister and a parliament whose members are elected by popular vote. The first general elections were held in 2008 as a result of a new constitution put forth by the His Majesty the Fourth King Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Bhutan is unique in that its current democracy is a result of actions taken by the monarchy (Tourism Council of Bhutan). For this reason, as well as the royal family’s continued efforts towards modernization, an improved health care system, and a commitment to the people of Bhutan, the fourth and fifth kings are revered and honored daily by their citizens. I have been lucky enough to see this firsthand.
On my one-month anniversary of landing in Bhutan, my fellow members of Wheaton in Bhutan X and I packed up our van in the dark, at the lovely hour of 3 am, and headed to Paro to celebrate the last day of the city’s Tshechu. A Tshechu is a religious celebration honoring Guru Rinpoche, the Tibetan saint who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the eighth century. It is celebrated in various cities on the 10th day of the lunar month. The Paro Tshechu is one of the most colorful things I have ever experienced. Everyone in attendance is dressed in their finest Kiras and Ghos (the national dress of Bhutan) as they come from hours away to be cleansed and receive blessings (TCB).
I was in awe of the entire event. It was unlike anything I had ever witnessed, and with my handmade Kira, which a friend had loaned to me, I hardly felt like a chilip (foreigner) at all. It was as though an entire nation was welcoming me into their culture. And then the King arrived.
His Majesty the Fifth King is often referred to as "the people’s king." Standing among hundreds of Bhutanese in the historic fortress monastery, the Paro Dzong, I finally understand how K5, as he is casually referred to, had earned his tagline. His Majesty walked into the Dzong (where there was no security, mind you) with minimal protection, so minimal that I could not even see the royal bodyguards, joined in the same procession I had just seen hours before, received his blessing and then wandered into the crowd where he proceeded to sit down between two elderly women and strike up a conversation. It was unrehearsed. It was honest and it was real.
In today’s world of mass media and tabloid news, we hardly ever see people in power being genuine. But in Bhutan, this is exactly what happens. What I witnessed from His Majesty is something that will stay with me for a long time. I understand now why families hang photos of their King next to wedding and graduation pictures. I can also now see that our understanding of the role of kings, queens, and royal families is not complete. In Bhutan, the Royal Family are more than figureheads, and far from tyrants. They are in many ways the heart and soul of the nation, the embodiment of Bhutanese culture, and a source of great pride for their people.